Umamma

Umamma, a typically Tuscan expression meaning “wow,” certainly lives up to its name. It’s exactly what Giovanni Settesoldi, the current owner and mastermind behind the renovation, exclaimed when he first stepped inside. Nestled on a historic street in the charming Tuscan village of San Miniato, this 230 m² building has been meticulously transformed, preserving its Renaissance foundations while restoring its former grandeur.

An architectural marvel, Umamma enchants all who visit. But the surprises don’t end there—this stunning property also boasts a 25m² terrace and conceals a heated pool in its basement, reminiscent of ancient Roman baths. It’s the perfect place for guaranteed relaxation before setting out to explore one of Italy’s most beautiful regions.

Nestled in a 16th-century palace with ties to the local Fine Arts, Umamma sits in the upper part of the village of San Miniato, offering a breathtaking view over the picturesque Piazza Bonaparte—an ideal spot to imagine yourself sipping a coffee. In this cinematic setting, the building, with its rich history, blends seamlessly into the surrounding charm. According to village elders, Umamma once served as stables in a distant past, adding an intriguing layer to its storied past.

In the early 1900s, the atmosphere of the building changed dramatically when its owner transformed the property into a brothel, attracted by its small windows and mysterious ambiance. After being abandoned for years, the building was rediscovered in 2017 by Giovanni Settesoldi, a lifelong Tuscan, who saw its potential and embarked on a seven-year journey of renovation to create his dream home—Umamma. Today, the property boasts a decidedly modern interior with an open-plan layout, thoughtfully designed to avoid clutter and achieve a harmonious balance between absolute comfort and the historic charm that still prevails.

Giovanni himself enjoys surprising his guests with unexpected details, and Umamma is full of them. It begins with the contrast between the open, airy spaces on the upper floors and the hidden lower rooms, which can only be accessed through a secret trapdoor. Another delightful surprise is the stunning view over the Arno River valley, which not only dominates the landscape but also includes a glimpse of Leonardo da Vinci’s childhood home. The highlight of any stay? Dining on the terrace as the sunset fades into night and the distant lights of the surrounding houses begin to twinkle, creating a magical atmosphere that perfectly encapsulates the charm of this extraordinary home.

The landscape of olive groves, vineyards, and picturesque villages invites us to explore this still largely untouched corner of Tuscany! Whether on foot, by bike, or on a Vespa, you can easily reach Florence, Pisa, or the coast, just 35 minutes to the west. But if you prefer to stay put, San Miniato offers delightful stay-at-home vacations. With popular festivals, fairs, and local gastronomic celebrations—including the must-try white truffle—there’s never a dull moment! As Giovanni says, “San Miniato still has a pure soul and real life, away from the tourist trails. Not being touristy means preserving local integrity, maintaining traditions and habits that don’t need to change to please those who don’t live here.” And that’s the way it is!